28th February, 2025

The Lure of Barra de Navidad

This one is for you, Kathy.

Not much has changed since the first time we sailed down to Barra in 2016.

For those of you who have never been, or maybe never even heard of Barra de Navidad, the town lies on the west coast of mainland Mexico, 135 nm south of Puerto Vallarta and 25 nm north of Manzanillo. It is a favorite of the cruisers.

Perhaps we are drawn there because this small village still holds the charm of old Mexico. The narrow cobblestone streets come alive at night. Music drifts out of doorways enticing customers to enter. They will. There are many beach bars where we can sit and watch the sunset. Merchants set out their wares on the sidewalk, tempting tourists who pass by. Many restaurants place their tables street-side with brightly colored tablecloths. Diners enjoy their meals under the stars with a gentle breeze flowing off the ocean. People come and go and sometimes stop to chat.

When we cruisers speak of Barra, we are really speaking of two places. One is the town of Barra that is in the state of Jalisco. The other is the Grand Isla Navidad Resort and Marina which is situated across the estuary and against a hill in the state of Colima. One is opulent. The other is not.

Even after eight years of coming to Barra, we are still stunned by the sight of the Isla Grand Hotel as we pass through the breakwater.  It is massive in size and “grand” seems like an understatement. Its many levels stretch across the hillside like a maze. The grounds are beautiful with its lush gardens and walkways. Hammocks hang in the shade of palm trees. They even created their own beach by carving out a small lagoon. Lounge chairs and palapas wait the hotel guests. That is, if they aren’t in one of the many pools.

The lobby sits on the sixth floor with breathtaking views that stretch for miles in every direction. Everywhere you look there is marble. A chandelier hovers over a winding marble staircase that takes the guests from the sixth floor to the fifth-floor restaurant. One of several restaurants in the hotel.

As we enter the breakwater, we must make a choice. Will we anchor in the lagoon? (Not the small beachside one, but another larger lagoon that lies beyond the marina.) Or should we dock our boat in the marina? Jay and I have yet to anchor in the lagoon. I don’t think we will. It is much too shallow. However, I have kayaked, and paddle boarded out to the lagoon. I enjoy the peaceful surroundings. I love trying to pick out the wildlife hiding in the mangroves.

The tiny village of Colimia that sits on the Isla hillside hasn’t grown. It hasn’t changed much either. Like Barra, many restaurants are there one year and gone the next. Mary’s and Fortino’s beach-side restaurants have survived. There is a new restaurant on top of the hill called The View. The have good pizzas and will deliver to your boat.

The marina is much the same. The docks are in as poor shape as they were in 2016. I suppose the management knows we will keep coming. And we do. We get the luxury of using the hotel amenities throughout our stay in the marina.

We cruisers like to gather around the pool. It is a chance to catch up with old friends and meet new friends. Pool volleyball has become quite popular. Some prefer the pool bar. There are yoga classes on the beach every morning but Monday. In the afternoon, there is water aerobics and a stretching yoga class on the grass. All are included in the amenities.

The French Baker still delivers to the marina and the lagoon every morning but Wednesday. His fresh baked goods are as delicious as always. Especially the chocolate cream and almond croissants. I do believe his sourdough bread is the best in town. The “French Baker” business has sold at least twice since you were here, Kathy. I miss the very first French baker with his authentic accent. You must remember him. Every morning, he would arrive on his panga, ringing his bell to alert us to his arrival. “Hello Lady,” he would greet me in his sing-song voice. How could we not be charmed? The latest “French Baker” sounds suspiciously Mexican. Ah, but it is Mexico, after all.

And the water taxi! Who doesn’t love the water taxi?

“Taxi aquatico, taxi aquatico. Cadenza,” we call on the VHF radio.

“Adelante.”

“Muelle C22 por favor.”

“Okay, momentito,” they answer. Eventually they showed up at our boat. We piled in and smiled while the wind blew our hair. It took us about three minutes to get across the estuary to the town of Barra. A quick ride but so delightful! Round trip for 50 pesos. I think it was 30 in 2016. Still a deal, I think.

It is all these things together. That is why we come back year after year.

Do you remember the time you introduced us to your friend on SV/Liahona? I am sorry to say, I have forgotten the gentleman’s name. I do remember he was a chef. You and Jim arranged for him to pull up to the dock next to us. He cooked a gourmet meal which he served to us on his boat. Afterwards, the instruments came out and the boys serenaded us with tunes. If I remember correctly, you sang along. I did not. I am shy that way. Unless, of course, I have had too many glasses of wine. Then…possibly.

We had so many good times cruising together, Kathy. We miss you and Jim.

Many former cruisers come down to Barra and join us in the month of February. They stay at the hotel or on friend’s boats. Maybe next year? We would love to see you.