October 17, 2013
Sometimes we get so caught up in the chores of preparation we forget that, this too, is the journey. Just the nature of preparation speaks of living in the future. But we need to be here now in order to enjoy the present. Otherwise it escapes us and becomes our past all too quickly. The irony of this is, I must consider my past to remind me of what it is I am experiencing now. (Confused yet?)
Once again, the pressure builds as the days get closer to leaving the Port of San Diego for Mexico. There is still plenty to do, but a lot has been accomplished too. Jay, feeling the ultimate responsibility for our safety and the performance of the boat, wonders, “Is this fun?”
Yes, there has been a lot of work. Jay fixed the solenoid on the propane tank, is reviving our dinghy after a visit to the dinghy doctor, replaced the fresh water filter, and continually makes bungee cords to secure the ever-growing amount of items needed to stay on deck. I continue to follow through with paperwork, call banks, make appointments, order boat cards, etc. Today we started on the non-skid project. So, I agree, (what seems like) menial tasks and fixing things does get old and isn’t much fun. But there is so much more.
We spent a day at Sea World with our children and grandchildren. We took a walk on Pacific Beach at sunset. I got lost looking for an ATM and discovered Balboa Park. Jay and I are both swimming daily and relax in the Jacuzzi. We have found some great restaurants; The Brigantine, Point Loma Seafood and the “best barbeque ever,” Phil’s BBQ. We pick up our grandson from kindergarten on Tuesdays and Thursdays and stay for dinner with Jay’s daughter and son-in-law. We visited Cabrillo National Monument and Coronado Island. Jay and our friend, Bruce, toured the Midway, a retired Navy aircraft carrier. And my daughter, Talia, and I spent some quality mother/daughter time shopping and sipping wine in La Jolla.
Sure, amongst all this there have been trips to Downwind Marine and Ace Hardware, (Both, by the way, are so very helpful to their customers.) looking for parts for this and that, picking up paint and varnish and sitting in on seminars. New things break as old ones get fixed.
But we wake up every morning to a beautiful sunrise and a cup of coffee and go to bed each evening after a glass of wine and a beautiful sunset, both while sitting in the cockpit of our boat overlooking the marina. And even though I look wistfully out at other boats as they head out to sea, yearning to go with them, I know we will be joining them soon.
So this is it. We are here, now, cruising. These are the days.
We are leaving Tubac tomorrow and heading back to San Diego. As our responsibilities of care-taking fade into the background, the responsibilities of boat preparation take center stage once again. It is October 10th and our planned departure is just a little over two weeks away. And there is still so much to do. I swear, I think Jay and I take turns lying awake at night, going over the list. Last night it was my turn.
There are more spare parts to purchase. We need hoses for the head, a joker valve, a flapper valve and a new fresh-water pump – it is sure to break. We have to put up another mast step that I recently bought. The rails need at least one more coat of varnish and I’m not sure when we will find time to paint the decks with non-skid. (We’ve only been saying we would do it for a year now.)
On Monday, the riggers are coming to fix the battens on our mainsail and deliver our modified mizzen spinnaker.
There are seminars to take. Yup! I’m still taking classes. Downwind Marine, here in San Diego, caters to the cruising crowd and offers seminars almost daily during October. We are taking Offshore Communications with Shea Weston and Gordon West. We are also attending Terry Sparks’ HF Radio seminar. And on Sunday, October 27th, I am driving to Long Beach to take Les Chesnau’s all-day weather class. (I have taken 13 weeks of weather classes at Orange Coast College but that was several years ago. I am desperate for a refresher course and Lee Chesnau is the expert. Hence, I am willing to drive the distance.)
Then there are the social obligations that are adding up. The people we need to meet; the cruisers who, like us, are traveling south this fall season, the people we have already met; our dear friends who are traveling from all over southern California to bid us Bon Voyage, and our family; we are trying to spend as much time with as many family members as possible.
Oh, and then, later in the month, we will be traveling back up to Malibu for a few days. One more visit to the doctor and dentist, one more hair cut, close up the safety deposit box and stop by the storage unit. (Note to self, don’t forget the keys.)
In all our reading and researching, no one could have prepared us for the amount of minutiae we would have to deal with. Our lives are so complicated! We’ve been calling credit card companies and banks to notify them of our travel plans. We have arranged our mail (sort of), set up online billing, applied for insurance, filled out forms.
Forms! Ugh, the documentation! Copies and copies of everything; boat registration and insurance, passports, driver’s licenses, fishing licenses. And the lists! We have to have a list of every piece of equipment on the boat with serial numbers for our Temporary Import Permit. I still have to make a list of where everything is on the boat. And we have to complete a “Despacho” or Crew List form printed in Spanish.
Etc. Etc. Etc.
It’s no wonder we’re not sleeping. In fact, my last words last night before I finally fell asleep were, “Jay, do we have a sail repair kit?”
And the clock keeps ticking…
October 6, 2013
Tubac is 50 miles south of Tucson and just 24 miles north of Nogales and the border of Mexico. Once a Spanish presidio and then a farming community, it is now mostly an artists’ colony. The tiny village hosts a plethora of galleries, trinket shops, and places one can find beautiful Mexican pottery in a variety of bright colors. While still a desert we have left the Saguaro cacti behind. The terrain changes from dull tans and browns to tans and browns spattered with a touch of green. This is due to the fact that it lies in the Santa Cruz River Valley. I am told the Santa Cruz River runs through it but I have yet to see this illusive river. There are train tracks too. Last night, as I heard a train go by, I was reminded once again, of long ago and my first visit to Mexico.
It was the summer of 1968 and I was ten years old. We had recently moved back to the United States from Bangkok, Thailand. Dad was working for Lockheed at the time and they had transferred him to Tucson. As I recall, we drove down to Nogales and took a train from there to Mazatlan. This was my very first train trip and I was excited to be staying overnight in the sleeping car. Like most memories, they cannot be recalled exactly, but fade into images and impressions. I have three very distinct impressions of my time in Mazatlan. First, that it was a dusty town. (Remember, this was over 40 years ago. I hear it is a sprawling metropolis now.) Two, I had a new culinary experience. I tried my first mango and found I didn’t like it. And three, I swam in the ocean with big, powerful waves.
Both my father and grandmother were swimmers. In fact, my Grandma Alice was a high diver. (She dove off the Burlington Bristol Bridge. Crazy! But that is another story.) Ironically, my mom can’t swim at all. Me, I’m a fish and I had been taking swimming lessons all summer.
It was my brother, Jim, who taught me how to swim in the ocean. He would take my hand and lead me into the water where we would scurry fast through the breakers and then we would lift up, over and down the swells and wait for the next one, my head barely above the sea. It was great fun. Soon I was body surfing.
This day, I was body surfing when an undercurrent swept me up and tossed me violently about. Fortunately, my father had taught me to never fight the ocean. He told me to relax and just go with it and eventually it would release me. I tucked into a ball and instinctively covered my head with my arms and hands. Good thing, too, because I was thrown head first onto the ocean floor. I can only imagine what might have happened had I not protected my head. I pulled myself up and stumbled out of the ocean and onto the beach. I was, quite literally, shook up. Needless to say, there was no more swimming that day.
Mazatlan is one of our planned stops when we travel down the Gold Coast the winter of 2014/15. It will be interesting to revisit and see if I recognize anything that might awaken a lost memory.
Meanwhile, even here in Tubac, we continue to prepare for our journey. We bought a fold up wagon, extra water containers, and are inquiring about the proper insurance. We have been studying the charts and reading up on the various ports where we plan to stop. And we have been practicing Spanish. The other day, I asked the cashier to tell me in Spanish how much the groceries cost. Today, we had a conversation in Spanish with our waiter. I even felt brave enough to contact a Mexican marina by phone. But when the lady answered with a rapid flow of words, I was flustered and couldn’t even begin to understand her. Except for “Buenas Tardes.” I surrendered. “Hablas Ingles?” I asked.
Poco a poco.
On another note. For those people who want to know, Mom had a much better day today. She woke up bright and clear-eyed. She was much more lucid. We even took her to church. While we were there, one lady was particularly taken with Mom’s presence. As we were leaving, she leaned over and said with emotion, “You are so very lucky to still have your mom in your life.”
Indeed. We are very lucky.
October 3, 2013
I’ve been struggling about what I should include in this blog, and what I shouldn’t. This story isn’t funny. It isn’t light. It isn’t even about sailing. But then there are many aspects to cruising, and to not include something because it is difficult or unpleasant would be wrong. So I have made the decision to share some intimate moments, because life continues despite the choices we make.
I sometimes think many people assume that since we are cruising we are off having the time of our life and that “living the dream” means it is all “fun and games.”
Not true. It has its sunny days and its rainy days. And as I sit here contemplating the last few days, I am reminded of a saying from the Tao Te Ching that goes something like this, “Sometimes breathing is hard and sometimes breathing comes easily.” Today, breathing has been hard.
Basically, life, while cruising, is like any other life. For instance, weather is a constant issue. One that we have to be aware of and vigilant with regarding our anchorages, as well as our passages. Things break and we have to fix them. There are daily chores. Just provisioning can be a challenge, especially without a car and in foreign ports. Everything, including the language, is unfamiliar. There are disagreements. We still get depressed and get sick, and need to rest. We continue to watch our children grow,albeit from a distance. We share in their accomplishments and lament over their heartaches. And we watch our parent age. Some go quickly, like my father, who died of a heart attack at the young age of 66. And then there are those who, like my mother, take the long walk home.
Mom has Dementia. She lives in a two-bedroom cottage on my brother’s property. He built this home for her when we realized she could no longer take care of herself. This has allowed my mother her privacy and the comfort of her own home while still being watched over by someone who loves her deeply, her son.
Jim does everything for her. He feeds her, cleans her house, monitors her medicine, takes her shopping, keeps her company, etc. Mom depends on him for everything and for that she is truly grateful and says so on a daily basis. (That is, when she is cognizant of her surroundings.)
As the Dementia has progressed, we have hired a woman caretaker who bathes her, washes and curls her hair and gives her a manicure. She is great company for Mom and she enjoys Nichole’s visits.
Jay and I visit three to four times a year, both to help Jim by giving him a break and to spend time with Mom. We miss her.
With each visit there is some sort of noticeable decline. Jim warned me that Mom was “falling into the hole” more often. (This is when she seems lost, not quite sure of her surroundings. It’s almost as if she is half in this world and half way in another.) Jim had to take her phone away as they discovered she had been calling some lady at all times of the day and night for over a year. I am guessing she tried to say something, but not being able to put her words together, in addition to hearing an unfamiliar voice, it threw her, and ultimately she hung up. The lady on the other end, not knowing the source of these calls was, understandably, upset.
That is another problem for Mom. She can’t collect her thoughts and present them verbally, making communication difficult. We often wonder – how much does she understand what is happening to her? One time, recently, she told Jim, “Something is wrong with me. I lost my memory.” It surprised him, first, that she could actually say these two sentences in sequence, and second, it saddened him that, on some level, she might actually know what was happening to her mind. It turns out, he took comfort in the idea that she was aging in a child-like way, innocent and unaware. That she was seemingly in a happy state, despite her condition. I agreed.
But now, I question whether or not she continues to reside in that “happy state.” She is incredibly frail. Her bones are weak and have trouble holding her upright. She complains she doesn’t feel well. And not unlike a child, she is unable to communicate what, exactly, is the cause of her discomfort. We guess and give her medicine and lie her down to rest.
A few hours later, she seems bright again. She says she feels better and that is hopeful. Not long after, she complains again she isn’t feeling well and that her body, well, she tells me,”I am dying.”
What does one say to that?
I am witnessing her body shutting down. Do we take her to the doctor and subject her to a battery of tests and procedures to keep her alive when her quality of life is so diminished? Or do we allow her the grace to accept her destiny and let nature take it’s course? Can we find peace in the inevitable and finally surrender, letting God hold her hand on this long walk home?
I don’t have the answer. I just sit with Mom and comb her hair. I talk to her and let her know she is loved and not alone.
So, yes, sometimes breathing is hard and sometimes it comes easily.
Today it was difficult to breathe.
People want to know – how did we get such a great picture of our boat? Our friends, Alison and Allan, again. Remember I told you they are pilots. One Sunday afternoon we were going for a sail and they were going for a flight. They buzzed us and later presented us with this photo. Nice.
And people want to know – when are we leaving for Mexico? Well, that all depends on the weather, but the plan is to leave on or about Monday, November 4th. We will check into Mexico in Ensenada and stay for several days. Then we will harbor hop down the Pacific coast of Baja, taking two weeks or more to reach La Paz.
And people want to know – what are we up to now? Well, besides sanding and varnishing and fixing sails and installing fans, we have been walking and swimming and having a lot of fun spending time with family. Part of the reason we wanted to stay so long in San Diego is because Jay’s daughter, son-in-law and grandson live here. We have been spending some quality time with them. And Tuesday we will be taking a road trip to Tubac, Arizona where my brother, Jim, lives. We will visit and care for my mom while he and his partner, Michael, fly off to Hawaii for a much needed break.
So, even though this is a sailing blog, I will continue from the desert. All part of the journey.
Some people have patron saints. One prays to a saint to intervene with God on their behalf. I pray to Mary.
At the time I began praying to Mary I was a young mother struggling to raise two children. I thought that if anyone could understand the joys and heartbreaks, as well as the infinite challenges of being a mother, it was she.
It wasn’t long after I converted to Catholicism that I was sitting in our church one Easter season (Easter is my favorite holiday. A time of renewal and full of hope.), listening to The Passion. This is a story that should be considered from many perspectives, but this day, I saw it through the eyes of Mary. How she must have suffered, despite her faith, watching her son carry the cross to his death.
My prayers to Mary are both comforting and powerful. So it was particularly poignant when I walked into St. Agnes for Sunday mass and saw the statue of Mary holding Jesus in one arm and a sailboat in the other.
There it was. A message directly from Mary to me. (You see, I had intended on attending another church but circumstances led me to St. Agnes. Circumstances? Hmm…I wonder…) Instantly, I was full of emotion as a big smile came across my face as well as a tear fell from my eye. Mary’s message was clear. She is watching over us on our journey. Truly a comforting thought.
I went back to The Living Room and realized it was way cooler than I had explained. (I guess I was so absorbed with choosing what I was going to have for breakfast, I missed a few things.) The actual “living room” is decorated in, what I will call, antique thrift shop. There is a variety of couches and tables that might have been worth something once upon a time, but probably aren’t anymore. The walls are decorated with albums. Real album covers from the 60s and 70s, (as well as actual vinyls) like Loggins and Messina, for example. There are movie posters too. And framed magazine covers, like when Leonardo DiCaprio was young and just off the sensation of THE TITANIC.
This simple two-story house houses secrets, I am sure of it, and I want to sit here and veg and assimilate the real history that is kept within its walls. But I am locked in the 21st century; stuck between my own memories of the past and the fast-forwarding future. Yet, this structure, it holds a captivating presence.
Did I mention it has a back patio too? And I finally discovered the upstairs. The walls that originally divided the bedrooms have all been knocked down, allowing for a continual flow, despite four entry-ways that still hang on. I am told that those who want a quieter place to study find their way here. I find it interesting how we humans sometimes like to be quiet, but not alone. So we journey out to find a place where we can sit in peace with a room full of strangers.
I really like this coffeehouse/bistro and suggest, if you ever find yourself in Point Loma, stop for a cup of coffee and a bite to eat at The Living Room. You won’t be disappointed.
September 23, 2013
All I wanted was to get our Mexican fishing licenses. I went on the internet and found Conapesca, the Oficina de Pesca, here in San Diego. I gave Siri (on the Iphone) the address, and off I went.
Sounds simple enough. Only I didn’t listen to that little voice. The one that said I should call and check what I needed to bring before I left. But I had a file of any and all possible paperwork I might need and surely they take credit cards, I thought.
But, no. They didn’t take credit cards. This was, after all, “The Government of Mexico- Department of Fishing,” and they accepted only money orders and cash. (Let’s just call this my first lesson in dealing with the Mexican government.)
“Siri, where is the nearest Bank of America?”
“There are five Bank of America’s in your area and two look close to you.”
I chose the closest one, which was just less than a mile and decided to get some exercise and walk. I put money in the meter and off I went. Now, mind you, it was noon, 85 degrees and I was wearing flat sandals with absolutely no support. Still, it was a nice walk in which I discovered Balboa Park.
What a wonderland! Acres and acres of parkland with countless museums, theaters, music halls, water fountains and gardens. Not to mention the infamous San Diego Zoo. Much of the architecture is Spanish Renaissance and so, even though I didn’t get to enjoy the culture, the sightseeing was spectacular. (Note to self – I must come back here.)
So mesmerized I was with the enormity and style of Balboa Park that I slowed down my steps trying to take in the scenery. Soon I realized that I had only put an hour’s worth of coins in the meter and so, if I didn’t want a parking ticket, I had better pick up the pace.
I usually ask Siri for driving directions, but these were walking directions and after I got close to where she claimed the ATM to be, I began to wonder if I had made a mistake, or maybe, she had made amistake.
I checked the time. I had been gone almost a half hour already and had only a half hour left. I was so close, according to Siri, but… She seemed to be directing me to a place that looked beautifully landscaped but with no buildings. I checked the time again.
Darn it! I think I’m close, but I have to head back or I might get a ticket. I turned around and walked quickly back to my car with only minutes to spare.
Not one to give up, I decided to take the car to this illusive ATM. Once again, I asked Siri for directions and I was off.
“You have arrived at your destination.” Siri told me. I pulled over and parked still wondering where it was she was taking me. I got out of the car and began, again, on foot. (By this time, my feet were really hurting.) I never did find the ATM, but I did find a beautiful rose garden.
Back in the car, I asked, “Siri, where is the nearest Bank of America?” This time I ignored the closest suggestion and went with the next closest one.
“You have arrived at your destination.” she told me again.
“Yeah, we’ll see about that” I muttered under my breath. I was in a parking lot of an Albertsons. Sure enough, inside was an ATM and I withdrew the dire-needed cash.
So, two miles of walking, ten miles of driving and two hours later, I walked out of Conapesca with our fishing licenses. (Did I mention there was a Wells Fargo ATM right outside the Conapesca, but I wanted to save the $2 fee?)
Oh my, if this is how I get around in our country, one can only imagine what it will be like for me to navigate through Mexico.
“You can see the very first signs of fall.” Jay said. “The leaves are starting to change.”
Jay is back in West Virginia. He flew back Saturday to do several days of intense professorship at WVU. He has back to back seminars, classes and forums. Last December he donated all his STAR TREK scores to WVU, his alma mater, and now he is sharing his knowledge, as well. He is also working with other professors at the university in designing an online music composition class he will be teaching from Mexico. Hmm, I wonder how that will work…?
Autumn is very different on the east coast than it is in Southern California. Obviously. Here, one has to be acutely aware of the ever so subtle changes. So subtle it is difficult to describe. It is almost like we have to sniff it out.
When I was a child, living in Pennsylvania, I remember loving fall. The changes there were clear. The air was cool and crisp and the leaves would turn beautiful shades of red, orange and yellow. The light was softer. Even the energy was different. It was back to school and back to work. No more lazy summer days, it was time to get busy being productive.
Last year Jay and I spent several weeks in Martha’s Vineyard during the change of seasons. We witnessed the end of summer, fall, and a hint of winter. The colors were amazing! So rich and warm. (Look for photos next week in the gallery.)
That is one of the things I will definitely miss during these years of cruising south – autumn in New England. So beautiful!
It all started with a cup of coffee and a breakfast sandwich. But that got me to thinking. I started thinking about habits and the choices we make. And the ones we don’t.
We have been in San Diego (or should I say, Point Loma, to be exact) for over a week now. Shortly after we arrived, our friends, Cindy and Bruce, drove our car down for us. Since then we have been scouting the area, checking out the stores and finding what’s around.
We found the marine stores, of course, and the Home Depot and Ace Hardware. (Wow! The Ace Hardware employees down here are great. They are friendly and super helpful. Service must be back in style.) We also found the Ralphs, Starbucks, and the Trader Joes.
So when we took off yesterday morning for a cup of coffee and a bite to eat, I naturally assumed we were headed for Starbucks. But then Jay proposed the question.
“Would you like to go to Starbucks or try that little cafe down the street – the one we went to last year with Bobbi and Don?”
“The little cafe!” I said. (I was feeling adventurous.)
Off we went to The Living Room, a coffee house and eatery just off the quiet end of Rosecrans Street. I am thinking this part of the street used to be a neighborhood with homes, not shops and restaurants like it is now, because The Living Room looked like someone’s house turned into a cafe. (Hence the name, The Living Room, I suppose.) It was the lone hold-out on a street filled with strip-mall like buildings. It was a unique building in that it had charm.
This historic landmark (as it turns out) had an outside porch along the sidewalk where one could sit and sip coffee and people watch. Then a few steps up a flight of stairs and you arrived on the first floor in a room with a serving counter, the kitchen and a few tables. If you moseyed on to the back area, I think this is what must have been the living room and it was filled with more tables and chairs, more like a dining room now. Jay said there was a second floor, as well, but I didn’t notice. A good enough reason to go back and explore further.
The Living Room had atmosphere and style. It had a quaint cottage-like feel, making us feel more like we were somebody’s guest in their home rather than a number in a cold, corporate building. Which got me to thinking…Why did we search out all those chain stores and restaurants?
I claimed we were cruising to new ports to find out about the people and culture. I frequently complain about the strip malls all over America. I call them Anywhere USA. Every shopping center has a Bed Bath and Beyond, a Home Depot, a Target, A Ross, etc. You get the picture. And honestly, you could be anywhere in the United States when you step into one of these stores. (One of the reasons I love Martha’s Vineyard so much is we don’t have the Anywhere USA strip malls.) So why then, when we came to our first port with the use of a car, did I search out exactly what I claimed I was trying to escape from?!
Was I programmed? Was it the comfort of familiarity that drew me there? Whatever it was, I saw myself as a mindless robot going places and doing things without much thought. I just went. Are there outside influences that keep leading me to these places? Was it advertising? Group consciousness? Or had I simply forgotten how to think for myself?
It’s scary when you think about it. Similar to the Hollywood Syndrome. Everyone knows that Hollywood knows what makes a “perfect” woman. Just ask any teenager. The perfect woman has straight, pearly white teeth and full lips. Her skin is shiny, lifted and tight with no blemishes. She has a small nose, big boobs, her waist is tiny and her body is skinny. This is the new mantra and our plastic surgeons are getting rich nipping and tucking and molding everyone to look the same. Boring! And yes, frightening, because wasn’t that part of Hitler’s plan, to tell the world what the “perfect” race was?
But I digress.
So there we were standing at the counter looking over the menu, getting ready to place our order. Secretly I was excited at the prospect of not only being in a new place, but maybe their menu would offer something new, as well. I was reading through it when the cashier mentioned that there were two specials; one was a burrito, the other a breakfast sandwich. Only this sandwich had egg, ham, Swiss cheese, and pesto on a croissant. Now here was something new. A slightly different take on the traditional. But pesto? In the morning? Really?
I looked back at the menu looking for something else that was original, but slightly less exotic. My eyes kept darting back to the same old, same old, breakfast sandwich. The only choice was which kind of meat you wanted and it was served on a bagel. Boring. But I was tempted. What is it with such habits?
Suddenly, I realized Jay had finished ordering and all eyes were on me. It was time to make a decision and I felt the pressure.
“Um…Uh…I’ll take the breakfast special, the croissant!” I said quickly before I changed my mind. There. I did it! I broke the mold and went with something new and different.
And I was glad I did because it was delicious. But I must confess. When it came time to order coffee, I went with my old standby, a mocha.
Some habits are just not worth breaking.