February 7, 2014

Jay always kids that he fixes one thing on his list and then adds two. It’s true! The list for fixing things on the boat is endless. We’ve been back from our last excursion a little over a week now and it seems we are only half finished with our list. It goes something like this:

Fix anchor light
Get new hose for head
Caulk holding tank vent
Repair Starboard cockpit hatch
Flush out holding tank and air vent
Flush out bilge
Fix leak from sissy rail
Get bilge pump hose
Replace dinghy valve
Caulk windows
Service windlass
Clean and paint inside of head closet floor
Sand and varnish rails
Sand and varnish windows
Sink drain hose (bathroom)
Sand and paint section of mast with bare wood
Fix cracked frame on starboard window
Restring fishing reel
Repair other fishing reel
Fix port side fiberglass
Get bottom cleaned
Etc., etc., etc.

And then I added some things to the list:

Take in laundry/sheets, towels, rugs, clothing
Do hand wash
Clean oven and stove top
Clean out refrigerator & freezer
Clean out can locker
Take food inventory
Fill water tanks
Fill water bottles
Renew prescription
Get eyeglasses fixed
Provision
Etc., etc., etc.

The work began the very next day after we arrived back at the dock. Jay was on a quest for new hoses for the head. He had fixed it out at anchor, but only temporarily. Since it is such an ugly job, he wanted to get it working properly and over with as soon as possible. That is what took us on a five-mile walk through several marine stores. Well, that and the many other miscellaneous items he had on his list.

I suppose its not unusual to have to go to several marine stores to find the parts one needs. It’s just that each time we go into town, we can count on it taking most of the day. We take the shuttle in, which is a twenty-minute ride, and then begin our walk. Each marine store has a little of some things but none has one of everything.

We found the head hose at the third and furthest marine store. We never did find the bilge hose. Not on the first trip into town anyway. He also found the caulking that he needed and some brushes for varnishing. We now had enough supplies to keep us busy for a few days.

Next stop was Mercado Bravo for some provisioning. Food shopping in Mexico reminds me of when I was growing up. My grandparents house, and the home my mother grew up in, was on Brunswick Avenue in Trenton, New Jersey. Those were the days when supermarkets were just barely surfacing into American culture. Since most families had only one parent working and the other one stayed at home, they had the time to visit various specialty stores.

Grandma shopped at the butcher’s for meat and the produce market for vegetables and fruit. There was a bakery for breads. Grandpa was a milkman by trade, so that’s how we got our milk. And down the street from their row house, in Mrs. Wizzy’s front room, was the candy store. Every little girl’s dream!

Here in Mexico we have Mercado Bravo for fruits, vegetables, meats and fish. We also have the organic farmer’s market on Tuesday and Saturday. (Wonderful! See above photo.) Mega and Chedraui are two of the supermarkets. It is here we buy our dry and canned goods. Mega has a good cheese section and Chedraui has the better wine section. I was able to get my eyeglasses fixed at Mega. Both have bakeries but we prefer, la Panderia Gourmet, on Madero Street in town. We even have a bagel shop here! Fresh bagels every day! But as you can imagine, all these different markets mean a lot of walking. And then we are hand carrying all that we acquire. It can get quite heavy. Sometimes it takes days to provision as the supermarkets, Mega and Chedraui, and our marina, Coastabaja, are on opposite sides of La Paz. One day will be dedicated to the supermarkets and another day will be dedicated to in-town markets. Those days we usually do marine store runs too.

Walking through town, I always like to stop at Allende Books, the English book store. This too, is reminiscent of my early childhood. It was 1967 and our family was living in Bangkok. There was not much for a nine year old to do. I was in a far east country and hadn’t learned the language. But I did discover an English book store and it was there I spent hours on end, perusing the shelves. This laid the path for a lifetime love of reading and writing.

We entered Allende, and by now, we were laden with grocery bags and miscellaneous boat parts. Much to the amusement of the owner, Jay walked in with ten feet of head hose wrapped around his neck. A bit of banter went back and forth between them, Jay trying to convince her it was some type of musical instrument, like a tuba, while I found two books for my research. One was on the marine animals of the Sea of Cortez and the other told tales of Baja legends.

Allende Books is just about a block from where we catch our shuttle back to the marina. A good thing too, as we were perspiring in the hot sun and weary from carrying loads of cargo.

So what do we do for prescriptions? Well, it goes something like this. There is a doctor on board one of the boats in Marina La Paz. I was told to call her on the VHF radio, channel 22a and tell her about the prescription I needed to refill. We made plans to meet outside Club Cruceros at 3:00 pm on a Wednesday. (This is where cruisers gather every morning for coffee and gossip.) She asked me a few questions. She looked at my prescription bottle and then wrote me a one month prescription. Three hundred pesos please. Then she instructed me to which pharmacy I should take the prescription and to not leave without it being filled. Any problems I was to have the pharmacy call her. Another half mile walk uphill and six hundred pesos and I had my pills. For another month only. The next time I called her to have it refilled she just sent the prescription to the marina office and I was to pick it up there and leave my three hundred pesos with them. Fortunately, this time, she wrote it for three months. A wee bit expensive, but I am grateful for her service.

Laundry isn’t much of a deal. There is a lavanderia in the marina. It is usually done the same day and for a very reasonable cost. You want to bring your own detergent though as the Mexican laundromats like to use highly perfumed, probably toxic, soap suds. The first time I brought our laundry back from the lavanderia, I thought I was going to get sick from the intoxicating smell it was so strong.

We had one more thing on our list Jay needed and it was a valve for the dinghy. Again, communication amongst the cruisers’ community is done through channel 22a. Jay got on the radio and called Baja Inflatable Repair asking if they had one. He did, in fact.

“Well, how do we get it?” Jay asked.

“Not sure, I’m out at the airport. Where are you?”

Not even close. He made plans to meet outside Club Cruceros at 3:00 pm. Another trip into town, a mile or so walk and $35 American dollars later, Jay had one in hand.

So goes living on a boat in Mexico.

Today we got a lot done. The windlass was taken in for servicing. Our friends came over with their ultraviolet water filter and we filled our two tanks. We sanded and varnished the windows and Jay changed the valve in the dinghy. We were also able to finally change our bilge pump hoses.

So now the list is two thirds complete and we are finally ready to venture out again next week. We have a month or thereabouts to sail up into the Sea of Cortez before we have to head back to La Paz. We hope to get up as far as Bahia Conception. We’ll see. It’s really up to the weather gods and if any boat ferries decide to play their mischievous games. Whatever happens, I am sure it will be an adventure. I can’t wait.

Some things never change. We got together with a bunch of our friends and watched the game at the Costabaja Beach Club. Great fun.

Go Seahawks!

February 1, 2014

I absolutely love movies. If I had to identify one thing I miss the most about the states (other than family and friends), it would be going to the theater. Especially during holiday season when all the best films are released just in time to qualify for a myriad of award’s competitions.

There is a movie theater in La Paz that shows films in English. It’s just they are a select few and not always what I want to see. It is also a bit of a trek. The theater lies on the outskirts of town and costs a pretty penny to get there. Needless to say, Jay and I haven’t seen a movie in a theater in a long time.

However, just before leaving Channel Islands Marina Jay did install a 27″ monitor in our salon. Up until then we had been watching them on our computers. It’s so much better on a big screen. Sometimes, we even have movie night and invite our friends over for dinner, popcorn and a movie. It makes for a nice evening.

I tend to prefer drama. Films that have a good script with quality actors that provoke thought. Sometimes I go for sheer entertainment. And of course, I’m a hopeless romantic, so I succumb to the romantic comedies. Then there are Woody Allen films. I used to think there were two kinds of people in this world; those who were Woody Allen fans and those who were not. I blew that theory. I have found some of his films hilarious and others just make me uncomfortable. In a creepy sort of way.

The latest Woody Allen film that we have seen is “To Rome With Love.” Very funny. I would recommend it. In fact, we have been watching a lot of comedies lately. Our crew mate, Don, brought “Captain Ron” with him. Evidently this is a must see for anyone going cruising. Don and Jay made sure I was properly indoctrinated into the boating culture by watching this film. (Both of them had already seen it countless times.) It was fun and silly and made me laugh at this crazy lifestyle we have chosen.

Most recently, we bought the DVD, “There’s Something About Mary.” Last summer when we were in Martha’s Vineyard, I was in the kitchen cooking dinner and Jay was on the couch switching through the television channels looking for something to watch. Suddenly I heard him bellow with laughter. He had come across a scene in the middle of “There’s Something About Mary” that certainly struck his funny bone. We made a note to purchase this film to have while on voyage.

Mary is perfectly cast with a young Cameron Diaz. Her character is intelligent in that she is a doctor. But with everything else in life, she approaches it with a beautiful naivete. She has a childlike quality in her innocence and joy. She sees only the good in people. (Most times to her comedic detriment.) All fall in love with her. Everyone wants to be around her because Mary’s enthusiasm and love for life is contagious. Her aura permeates the souls of all that surround her.

This is how I feel about dusk.

Okay, I know it’s a bit of a stretch, to compare a character in a movie with a particular time of day, but stay with me.

Yesterday we took our friends, Kevin and Debbie of sv/Peppermint Patty (who just recently arrived from Ensenada) into town to show them around. It was late morning when we started on our journey into town. The shuttle was full so we decided on taking a cab rather than wait another two hours for the free shuttle. He dropped us off in town center at the bank.

Banking finished, we began hoofing it. We stopped at the Italian Cafe for Espresso, then on to Club Cruceros where we dropped off our mail. (The way we get mail out of Mexico in a timely manner is to drop it off at the club with US postage and the next person leaving Mexico for the states or Canada picks it up and mails it up there. We are told that if we use the Mexican mail system, items can take up to six weeks to get to their destination. Or never get to their destination. Best to wait for the next Club Cruceros “burro.”)

At the club we ran into our friends from sv/Meridian and sat chatting for awhile. From there we walked to three different marine stores, one auto parts store, a plastics store, and Mercado Bravo. Next we found our way back to the church and ultimately to the malecon and finally, over to Tailhunter’s for lunch. We probably walked five miles in the heat of the day and the first beer went down faster than a glass of water. We were hot and tired and hungry.

It was after three when we got back to the boat. Kevin and Debbie headed off to Peppermint Patty for a bit of a respite. Jay decided to get out of the sun and lie down for a nap. I chose to put on my swim suit and head for the beach club.

Still steaming from the sun, the pool was a bit cold. Not startling, more like refreshing. I got out and took a seat with a view of the pool overlooking the sea. It faces west and is a perfect set-up for the sunset. I waited and watched as the sun slowly went down over the horizon.

But it wasn’t only the stunning visual that was capturing my attention. It was the subtle changes in the air as the sunlight got softer and danced in and out of the clouds. A dry breeze picked up, blowing gently through the palm trees, and with it brought a cooling touch to my skin. It was a welcome relief. The chemical reactions happening to my psyche were not unlike those that take place when someone is around Mary.

I immediately fell in love with the world and nature. I was content to be exactly where I was, not ever wanting to leave this state of euphoria. At that moment, all was right. Does the experience of “being” create endorphins? Maybe. Maybe not. All I know was that I felt joy, pure joy, permeating my soul.

There’s something about twilight.

Just outside of La Paz, there are three islands/islets that are collectively known as the Islas Espiritu Santos; Isla Espiritu Santo, Isla Partida and Los Islotes, or The Holy Spirit Islands. About sixteen miles north of Los Islotes is another small island, Isla San Francisco. We set sail on January 19, 2014, for ten days to explore them. This is what we found.

Sunday, January 19, 2014
La Paz to Isla Espirtu Santo

We left Marina CostaBaja a little after ten in the morning with a high tide and no wind so it was much easier leaving the slip than it had been the last time we tried to dock. Jay and I had gone over the charts and the cruising guides. We decided to decide where we were going when we got out into the bay and on our way. We wanted to see what the sea and sky were like and, since there were so many choices close by, there was no hurry to make up our mind. Besides, our decision would be based partly on our desires but more importantly, the weather.

All sources said the northers were calming down and that we would have a few days of some wind (anywhere from 10 to 17 knots) and then several days of calm. They also called for cloudy skies Saturday and Sunday and they were right. If I were to give them a scientific name, I believe there were both Cirrus and Cirrostratus clouds looming in the sky. But what I saw was what looked like cotton candy, stretched thin, with holes torn through, showing hints of deep blue sky. There were also long, wispy strips that looked like mare’s tails. Wind clouds. Later, patches of a mackerel sky would appear. (Here on the west coast I am told this is a sign of good weather to come.)

At the moment, there was less than ten knots of wind from the north. On the nose, of course. Few boats in sight. As we left the Baja peninsula and headed across the San Lorenzo Channel toward Isla Espirtu Santo, we noticed a lone sailboat to our right. Evidently they chose to sail. Or maybe they had to sail. Either way, they were a lighter boat than us and could point into the wind, but still were only making about two knots through the water. We passed them by and continued on.

The first anchorage on Espirtu Santo is Gabby Bay, and although Jay and I intend to go back there, today was not the day. We had decided to go to Ensenada Del Candelero. This anchorage is one short of the furthest north on the island, but still only 23nm from La Paz. Before getting there, we have to pass Puerto Ballena. It is a three-lobed bay. Outside, to the west of these bays are two small islands, Isla Gallo and Gallina, Rooster and Hen Islands.

It never ceases to amaze me how the color and the contours of the terrain change with every new angle. Coming up from the south, we can see no separation of land that would indicate an island. But as we get closer and are at a ninety degree angle, there they are. More like gigantic rocks, though, than islands. I wouldn’t want to run into one of them at night. In fact, that might be a distinct possibility as our charts are about 1/8 of a mile off. It has proven prudent to lay the radar over our electronic charts to keep us safe.

A wee bit further north and to the west of us is Isla Ballena, or Whale Island. (They call it this because from the side angle it looks like a whale.) To the east of us and behind the tiny islands are the three lobes. As we weave our way between Gallo and Gallina on one side, and then Ballena on the other side, it feels like we are on a slow, Disney ride through a mountainous pass. The cliffs are streaked with different shades of red, gray and brown. It is a stark view of rock and desert mixed.

Candelero turns out to be smaller than I expected. But once again, as we enter the cove and the angles change, so does my view. The mountainsides grow taller. The water turns from a dark blue to a light green and then to a vivid turquoise.

Often times I contemplate the sheer brilliance of God’s artistry. Study a blackberry, for example. Or notice the delicate beauty of a seahorse. And then there are these majestic rocks that rise from the sea like Roca Monumento.

This is the rock that has given the cove its name. It sits in the middle of the bay, and along with a reef, divides the south beach from the north. From the angle we have anchored it looks like a big hunk of candle with candle wax dripping down its side. On one end, there are a bunch of boulders that have fallen into a pile which looks like wax has melted into one big heap. I sit wondering how those rocks got there. What made them fall? Did they fall? Where did they come from? Out of the top and sides grow cactus and there are patches of green fern-like plants hanging from the crevices. The laughing seagull possessively announces this is her home and shows off her newly “painted” rocks, draped with guano. There are caves etched into the bottom layer, from water erosion, I presume. Though not big enough to kayak through, some go clear through to the other side.

We are alone. We are the only boat in the anchorage all night. The clouds provide a colorful sunset. We have dinner and go to bed early. The night is black, black, as the moon is sleeping in again. There are few stars visible as the clouds still hover about.

It is still. So still that when a few waves come our way both Jay and I awaken. Jay is confused by the motion and I tell him I heard an engine far off in the distance. It must have been a boat. All goes quiet again. There are none of the usual boat sounds. No wind through the rigging. The dinghy isn’t rubbing against the stern. There is no illusive noise keeping us awake trying to guess where it is coming from. Just a small gurgle from the water in the sink drain.

Suddenly the wind whips up and soars in and out through the caves of Roca Monumento, creating a haunting song. I lie awake listening and, once again, contemplate the sheer brilliance of God’s artistry.

Monday, January 20, 2014
Ensenada Del Candelero, Isla Espirtu Santo

Today we had a picnic on south beach. But first we went to north beach to check it out. The tide was high and there was no surf so we were able to beach the dinghy with relative ease. I say relative because there is always that last part of pulling the dinghy, with its engine, up onto the beach. We have wheels but they don’t work here because the sand is so soft. Good for a workout though. Just not so great for the backs.

Almost immediately, Jay disappeared. He wanted to find the amphitheater and historic well that he had read about. Off to the right there was what looked like a sign and so he headed that way.

I was slower in my approach. In awe as I looked around at the scenery. In the middle of the beach was a big dip of sand which held leftover water. Probably from very high tides and rough seas. It was circular and darker brown than the rest of the sand. Partly, I suppose, because it was wet. I decided to follow Jay but was heading straight across the center as the water was low enough to walk through. About one third into the circle, I looked down and saw hundreds of little creatures scurrying about.

“Ahggh!” I screamed, running straight back from where I came from.

“What?” I hear Jay yell back.

“Crabs!! Thousands of them! Ahggh!” Still running. “Come look.”

But he was off on his own journey soon to be out of sight.

Evidently I had disturbed their busy work and they were as scared of me as I was of them. They were tiny. No more than an inch, most of them. Some were as big as three inches, but not many. Some were carrying something on their backs. Food? Upon a closer look, I notice thousands of little holes in the sand. This must be where they live.

“Jay?” I call out. “Jay? Where are you?”

Suddenly I hear him shout but he isn’t answering me. He found the amphitheater and just like a little boy he yells out to hear the sound of his voice echoing through the canyon. (It is interesting. I am finding that we are getting less and less inhibited as we spend more time with nature and less time with people.) Then he calls our for me.

“You’ve got to come see this!” He says in delight.

This time I avoid the little crabs by walking completely around the brown circle to get to the path that leads to the amphitheater. The path is mostly sand and some brush marked by rocks on either side and leads to the rock face on the north wall. The wall itself looks like someone carved a path in the side of it. But that is impossible, I think. At the very least, improbable. Maybe it is the spring water that flows from the mountain that has shaped this stone to double as a walkway? I climb up the face of the rocks and look around. It is a natural amphitheater. A semi-circle, with no seats, but with good acoustics. Up on the hill is a well. We climb up to see if there is any water.

“Do you know this is a first for me?”

Jay looks at me questioning. “What?”

“I have never, in my life, seen a real well.”

Again, with the joy of children, we hang over the well, looking down and taking photos. Jay takes the bucket, pulls up some water and tastes it. “Fresh water.” He reports. We wonder who put this here and why.

Back at the beach, we walk up and down along the tide. I find a fish carcass that looks interestingly in tact. Between the well, the crabs and the fish, we determine we could survive here, if needed.

We crawl around the rocks that divide the north beach from the south beach but can’t find a way through so decide to take the dinghy around. Once in the dinghy, we change our mind and delay our lunch on south beach to check out the south wall where Pat Raines challenges her readers to find the mask in the rocks. I thought we had found it and took a photo. This image looked like a face etched into the rocks. But them we came upon what looked like a scarey mask. Big round holes in the rock for eyes and a mouth. This must be it. We took a photo of that one too. (Check out the photos in the gallery.)

Lunch was crackers and goat cheese, salami and leftover Mediterranean Salad along with a beer. We sat on the beach and enjoyed the last few moments of solitude. Off on the horizon was a sailboat heading our way and there in the sea were about twenty kayakers descending upon our little paradise. They landed and promptly set up camp. Looks like they are staying for the night. We were grateful to have this place all to ourselves for 24 hours, but it was actually nice to see some humans and to share in this beauty.

Time to get out of the sun. We go back to the boat and rest for awhile. Later I went out kayaking, scouting the reefs at low tide. I didn’t see much even though the water is so clear you could see to the bottom. Some coral and starfish like things. Not very scientific, am I? Every once in awhile we see a small turtle sticking its head out of the sea. And there are these birds. Small birds. Maybe three inches. They sit in the water in a circle; six to ten all together. And then as if one animal they dive under the water and disappear. Maybe they aren’t birds. Come to think of it, I haven’t actually seen them fly. Maybe they are ducks of some kind?

Visiting this island has brought up so many questions. I guess I have some research to do.

The finale was taking a sun shower, sans the bathing suit, on the deck of our boat. (Thankfully, no photos for this event.) See what I mean about getting less inhibited the more we hang out with nature?

NOTE: I read later that the crabs we saw were Fiddler Crabs. They are named this because when the male eats, he holds one claw like a fiddle and uses the other to put the food into his mouth, causing him to look like he is playing the fiddle.

Tuesday, January 21, 2014
Ensenada Del Candelero, Isla Espiritu Santo to Ensenada Grande, Isla Partida

There are many coves to chose from on these islands and all are just a few miles apart. We are just hopping around going in no particular order. I chose Candelero and when it came to Jay’s turn, he chose Ensenada Grande. They are only five nautical miles apart.

Isla Partida is directly north of Espiritu Santo. They are very close, maybe a half mile. On our way up north, we passed west of the very small separation between the two islands. From our viewpoint we could see Sandbar Pass. This is where two overlapping sandbars reach out from both islands so that only a dinghy or kayak can get through and then only at high tide. The east side of the sandbar is called Partida Back Door anchorage and must be approached by boat from the east. In between, where we were sailing and Sandbar Pass, lies Caleta Partida on the south end of Isla Partida. Caleta Partida is supposed to be one of the favorite anchorages and is on my list to visit soon.

The next cove we decided to check out was El Cardonal. This lies just south of Ensenada Grande and is cuts very deep into the island. We took Cadenza in and cruised the bay. It is a large cove with high mountainsides and a small beach. We make a note to visit this bay sometime in the future.

Just about at the entrance to Ensenada Grande, Jay sees something jump out of the water. “Look! Over there! Something black. It looks like it has a fin. Is it a dolphin?”

I get out the binoculars while Jay shouts that he sees one again. We hear a big splat. “They’re Manta Rays!” I tell him. Every time they jump and land in the water they make a big splat sound. Like they are doing a belly flop. You would think it would hurt. But I guess it doesn’t because they just keep doing it.

Jay gets his camera that can take videos and I take the helm. We follow them and get closer. I put the boat in neutral trying to capture them on film too. There were several. Sometimes two jumping together like synchronized swimming. Or should I say flying? They are fish that want to fly! We had heard the sea was filled with them and finally, we got to see the Manta Ray.

Ensenada Grande is made up of four coves. We chose number three because it is the largest and there are a few good hikes from the beaches. It looks like the kayakers got here before us and set up camp again. We go ashore, walk around a bit and then meet up with a few of the kayakers. Some of them come out for a few days, some for as long as seven days. They kayak around the island with local guides. There is a “mother ship” that brings in support for them; food, water, etc. Turns out they took a shower using the well water at Candelero. Tomorrow they will take the mother ship and go check out Los Islotes. These are two small islets just off the north tip of Isla Partida. There is a sea lion rookery and visitors go in by dinghy or panga to swim with the sea lions. It isn’t a great place to anchor. It’s very deep and has a rocky bottom. This is another place we will visit.

Back to the boat for an early night. Tomorrow we will hike across the island in the morning, come back to the boat for lunch, and then head over to Las Cuevitas in search of the infamous Blue Footed Booby.

Wednesday, January 22, 2014
Ensenada Grande, Isla Partida

“Are you kidding me?! I can’t believe this!” Jay exclaimed, not too happy now that the head was failing. Why is it that it’s the head that always takes a crap? So much for a morning hike.

Four and a half hours later, Jay has fixed the problem. Not without a lot of swearing, but I stood by, doing my best Vanna White, handing him tools and mopping up slush and talking him down from the “I hate this sh#@!” (literally) moments.

Yuck. It wasn’t much fun (Actually, it was gross.) especially for Jay. But, as usual, he figured out how to fix it and because of this, we are able to continue on our voyage.

It is one now and I make lunch even though Jay swears he can never look at food again. But I know he needs his nourishment. Especially after all the energy he expended fixing the head. That done, we look toward our next adventure.

We lower the dinghy, fill the tank with gasoline and then off we go to find the Blue Footed Boobies. Who are the Blue Footed Boobies, anyway, and where do they live?

They are birds with blue feet. And I guess they are proud of those feet too. When it is mating time the male tries to woo the female by lifting one foot and then another, his mating dance. They also use their feet to warm their babies. Both mama and papa help out with the incubation. They live throughout the Sea of Cortez but I have read that during mating season there is a rookery in a nearby cove. We go to check it out.

We spent the afternoon in the dinghy, searching coves and beaches for the illusive booby. We found three Brown Pelicans, one Herring Gull, (the rest must have been hiding) lots of Magnificent Frigatebirds and too many wasps. But not one booby.

We end the day with a glass of wine, watching another beautiful sunset. We look at each other and smile. “This is amazing.”

Thursday, January 23, 2014
Ensenada Grande, Isla Partida

It is a good thing I am logging the dates as the days out here start running together. The concept of time changes dramatically when cruising. Also when in another country like Mexico. But that is for another blog.

One thing I was very concerned about before we started off on this trip was how we were going to get the weather. It turned out we were able to access the internet for most of the coast of Baja but out here in the islands it is a different story. Fortunately, we have an SSB, and for this part of our journey, we are able to receive the Sonrisa Net. It is a ham station that broadcasts six morning a week and covers the entire country of Mexico. Cruisers that are ham operators check in and report their local weather. It could be from a cove as far south as Barra Navidad or as close as Isla San Francisco just twenty eight miles from here. But the best and most complete weather report comes from our Weather Underground guru, Geary.

Geary lives in Burro Cove in Bahia Conception. His weather reports come from a “…satellite antenna on a palm tree next to my palapa.” Each morning he gives us a complete synopsis of what the weather is doing across Mexico, as well as the states. It is an invaluable gift he gives us cruisers and we are grateful for his knowledge. No matter if we are sailing the seas or walking the shores, the weather is always a factor.

Finally, we got in our hike. Although it was more like rock climbing. Which was fun, but tiring. The national parks have done a great job marking the trails, but what was more interesting to me were the markings reminiscent of an old Indian tribe. Three rocks situated just so, grabbing our attention to the direction we should follow to continue on our path.

The day was hot. I’m not sure why they say La Paz is cold in the winter. It was so hot, we were finally ready to jump in the water when the wind (15 to 20 knots) and the cloud cover came up. Change of plans again. We had a lazy afternoon, relaxing and reading on the boat.

We started looking at the charts and cruising guides for our trip up into the Sea. There are so very many places to visit out here, one could take years and never see it all. For sure, we will head for Puerto Escondido. Not sure after that. We might go as far as Bahia Conception. We would love to meet Geary. Or, we might head over to San Carlos and Guaymas. Who knows?

They say, “Life is what happens when you’re making plans.” So I think I will get back to the present.

Night has fallen and the wind has stopped. The bay is quiet again. The stars are out fighting with the cloud cover to see who gets to show their stuff. Mostly the clouds win. It is the middle of the night and I have come out to check on the moon. She has finally shown her face. Well half of it. But she too is playing hide and go seek with the clouds.

In the stillness many thoughts arise. I wonder at the disparity of the world. I am here in this beautiful place where there is peace. I have food to eat and a warm place to sleep. Others are born into war and poverty and fraught with illness. How is it that I am so fortunate? For this, I am deeply grateful. But it also makes me question. Why the inequity?

Friday, January 24, 2014
Ensenada Grande to Isla San Francisco

Circling around Los Islotes is like visiting an ocean version of Jurassic Park. These two tiny rocky islets are where the sea lions have created a rookery. At first, it is almost impossible to see them as most are the usual brownish, black and blend into the scenery. Some are yellow and therefore are easier to sight. Because sea lions are very vocal and these ones live in and outside of the caves, their cries echo loudly throughout the area, sounding almost prehistoric. Hovering overhead are the Magnificent Frigatebirds. They add to the prehistoric feel. Both seagulls and pelicans sit here and there, claiming the rocks as their home too.

Divers and snorkelers come from all over to swim with the sea lions. Today our purpose was only to scout the islets, but knowing my love for sea lions, Jay says maybe one day we will come back here by dinghy and do the same. Meanwhile, we are on to our next stop.

Isla San Francisco is a small island about 16 nautical miles north of Islas Espritu Santos. It wasn’t on our itinerary, exactly. (Jay kept going back and forth, “It’s only 16 miles. Let’s wait until we head up north. Well, the sea condition is good. But no, let’s wait.” ) Today he looked at me and said, “It’s only 16 miles, just three hours. You want to go?”

“Sure!” And so we went.

We expected 17 to 20 knots of wind from the north later in the afternoon, but around 11am when we left Los Islotes, it was about 9 knots and low seas. By the time we reached the bay off the south side of Isla San Francisco the wind had accelerated to a steady 20 to 22 with gusts to 27. The seas were about three feet at two seconds slowing us down by several knots. Still we forged forward and anchored safely. Isla San Francisco has good protection from north winds and is known for being a holding ground when waiting to pass through the San Jose canal.

The Canal de San Jose is the area just west and north of Isla San Francisco where the Sierra de la Giganta mountain range on the Baja side lies to the west, and 16 miles of Isla San Jose lies to the east. The canal is only two to five miles wide and funnels the northers creating very strong winds and up to three knot currents.

The sky has been lined with a thin cloud layer all day. Now it builds over the mountains and is thicker and showing signs of a gray hue. We watch as boats arrive, one after the other, seeking shelter. From the bay, we have a good view of the Sierra de la Giganta mountain range. As their name suggests, these mountains are magnificent in their stature, and lend themselves to even more spectacular sunsets than those we have witnessed the last few nights.

The wind does not lay down. It continues at a steady twenty knot pace as it will all night. This time we do hear the howling of the wind through the rigging, the dinghy rubbing against the stern. And of course, the always illusive sound. What is that knocking I hear up on deck?

Saturday, January 25, 2014
Isla San Francisco

Jay says it looks like they dropped Phoenix in the middle of the Sea of Cortez. I agree. Just like Phoenix doesn’t have any of the beautiful Saguaro cactus that Tucson does, neither does San Francisco have the tall Cardon cactus that Espiritu Santo has. The desert terrain here is much more brush-like. Under the cloudy skies, the landscape looks quite dull. Jay promises me it will be much more beautiful once the sun comes out.

0830 and the wind is still howling 20 to 25 knots. From the weather reports it sounds like it will all day and maybe into tomorrow. Our plans for San Evaristo may have to wait until Monday or maybe even until our next trip, mid February.

The sky is absolutely clear today. I think this is the first day since we have been out here that there are no clouds. I peak my head out to see what Isla San Francisco looks like in sunshine. It is prettier than yesterday, but I am not a fan of this type of terrain. I think one has to walk around on the shore to get a proper perspective. Should the wind lay down, we will venture out. Until then, it might be a day of reading and writing.

Sunday, January 26, 2014
Isla San Francisco to Bahia San Gabriel, Isla Espritu Santo

After two days and sleepless nights of a steady dose of twenty five knot winds we pulled anchor and headed back to Espiritu Santo. We were tired of it. We equated it with being snowed in, only we were winded in. Eleven boats were holed up in the bay waiting for the wind to lay down. A few people did venture out to investigate the island. Jay and I were just not up to fighting with the wind and the waves and the sand blowing in our face so we opted to stay put. But then we got cabin fever and decided to head out the first chance we could. We knew we would be back here on our way north in February. Besides, neither one of us particularly liked this island so far. Maybe it will look different once we get on shore and look around.

The first part of our trip, the wind was up about 15 and the seas were still choppy; the norther was still hanging on. We put up the genny and sailed downwind. It wasn’t exactly a relaxing sail as we had to focus to keep the wind in our sail. The waves were pushing us all around. Still, we found it fun, conquering the challenge.

As we left San Francisco, I couldn’t help but notice the beauty of the Sierra de la Gigante mountain range. Rising 3600 feet into the sky, it is dramatic, especially in contrast to the shoreline. As the colors in the sky changed so too did the contours of the rocks, striped with reds and blues, grays and greens.

Then the wind died down. Back to motoring.

Then the wind picked up again. This time from the northeast. No one called for that. We put up the genny again and this time the seas had changed to rolling and were (for the most part) following seas. It was a lovely sail back to Espiritu Santo.

We heard our friends from sv/Georgia calling their buddy-boat, sv/Tiger Beetle. Tiger Beetle didn’t answer, but we did. It turns out both boats were at San Gabriel. We chatted for awhile, catching up on each other’s travels and then signed off saying we looked forward to seeing them in the bay.

The cruising community here in Mexico has turned out to be great. All along the way, we have been meeting new people on countless boats. We see them in one cove and then don’t see them for days and then run into them again in another anchorage or some town. Everyone is so helpful too. Here in the La Paz area, all one has to do, is get on the VHS, Channel 22a and hail, “Attention fleet.” Follow that with your boat’s name and what you need and eventually someone will get back to you who can lend a hand or tell you where to get what you need.

Well, we were in need (sort of) and we were in luck. Just as we anchored, Lucy from Georgia and Kristin and Rob from Tiger Beetle came over in their dinghy to say hello. Now on day eight of a ten day journey, we were getting kind of low on provisions. Nothing to worry about, but not the best of pickings in the fridge. Just in time, Lucy invites us over for dinner! Yea! We scrounge up some appetizers, crackers and smoked salmon and some celery stuffed with goat cheese, and were off to share a meal with our new friends. Lucy’s husband, Ben, fixed us a scrumptious German meal; Beef Roulade with steamed cabbage. Cookies for desert. Then back to the boat for a good nights sleep. Finally.

Monday, January 26, 2014
Bahia San Gabriel, Isla Espiritu Santo

We first noticed it from afar. Hundreds of birds were circling this one area over by the rocks. On the southeast side of the bay, nestled amongst the mangroves, we found a Magnificent Frigatebird rookery. It was quite a scene. The sound alone was a cacophony of mating calls; clucking and cries, loud drumming noises as they twisted and turned. There were hundreds of birds. Some where flying above. Others were sitting, either tucked into the bushes or along the rocks. Some were doing the mating dance. Others were actually mating. And still others were building their nests.

At first, we were confused as it appeared there were two different kinds of species mating. One flock of birds were black with white breasts and the other was pure black with a red neckline. It turns out that Magnificent Frigatebirds are the only seabird to have two distinct looks. The female is the white breasted one and the male is pure black with a purple haze along its back and a greenish siding. The red neckline is his gular sac. His mating ritual involves the puffing up of this sac until it looks like a red balloon or a rather odd goiter attached to his neck. This is what catches the females eye, telling her he is ready and wanting to mate.

The Magnificent Frigatebird has a wingspan that can reach seven feet, yet has very short legs making it difficult to walk. And these little stinkers are known for stealing fish! Their feathers absorb water so they can’t stay in the water long. Instead, when they see another bird catch a fish, they attack, trying to grab their prey. I guess we all take what we can in order to survive.

Dusk was falling when I noticed several dolphins around the boat. Several became twenty and then fifty and then maybe as many as one hundred entered the bay. For some it was feeding time. Others were playful, jumping three feet in the air.

“Quick! Help me lower the kayak!” I asked Jay, excited.

Chasing dolphins in a kayak. How great was that. They were all around me. Some would rise out of the water just a few feet away. I could hear their breath, even smell their breath, as they swam by. It was a very special moment in the many moments of this journey and I couldn’t stop smiling. Pure joy.

As the sun set, the clouds moved in. These clouds were dark and with them, brought rain. It was a gentle, steady rain that we listened to sitting under the dodger. A welcome relief to all the salt the Sea of Cortez carries. I am thinking Cadenza was smiling, grateful for a bath. I certainly was.

Tuesday, January 28, 2014
Bahia San Gabriel to La Paz

Day ten. Jay and I revisited the frigatebird rookery. I took some close-up photos while he took a video. I could have stayed hours watching this wonderful performance of nature. I am so fascinated and in love with the birds and animals and the multitude of fish living in the Sea of Cortez. But the time had come to weigh anchor. Back to the boat.

We were preparing to leave when a neighboring boat came up and asked us for some spare fuel. Paying it forward, we waited as they borrowed our five gallon diesel can and stored some back-up fuel as there gauge was suddenly registering lower than they thought safe. One day, that will be us.

The trip home was calm and uneventful. Beautiful.

Once docked, we were anxious to get a hot shower and relax. Turns out a main water line had broken. No water. No shower. Ugh!

Wednesday, January 28, 2014
Marina Costabaja, La Paz

The water is back on. The clean-up begins and I spend the day cleaning out the refrigerator, cleaning the oven and taking inventory of the food. Jay washes the boat and continues fixing various things that have broken during our cruise, checking items off his list. Neither one of us can wait to take a shower. Finally, the day’s chores are done and we head to the showers. Water, yes. Hot water, no.

Well? What do you say to that? Sometimes one just needs a bath, hot or cold. It was refreshing and felt so good to be clean. Did you ever think how wonderful it is to be able to have enough water to take a shower?

Our dear friend and mate, Don, became the Commodore of our yacht club this year. The Anacapa Yacht Club Commodore’s Ball was last night and Jay and I were feeling sad to have to miss Don’s main event and such a grand affair.

In our absence we sent a small gift. Don loves baseball caps so Jay decided we should have one made up that said “Commodore Don” underneath the AYC logo, as well as the year 2014. (Thank you to Lisa Rizzo of Custom Embroidery in Ventura!) Jay also wrote this poem below and sent it along. It was read to him at the party.

The picture above is of Don and his wife, Bobbi, at the Commodore’s Ball with his new hat. Congratulations Don!

COMMODORE DON

There once was a Commodore Don
Who in Mexico was called Senor Don
For reasons unknown
He hasn’t yet shown
Why some folks called him “ Don Juan.”

In San Diego he was oh so helpful
always finding the correct little widget
Bobbi came down
Don was not found
Perhaps it was a conjugal visit.

In Ensenada we found Guadalupe
Not a lady, but a beautiful valley
The sun really shined
Cause Guadalupe made wine
And Senor Don was again quite happy.

In Turtle Bay we were in search of some tail
Lobster, that is, to no avail
His Spanish was not so bueno
When in search of Langosta
He could only say “ How much it costa ?”
And found some although not quite on sale.

In Santa Maria we were very gamey
We were all feeling somewhat zany
We jumped in the bay
washed the salt away
and traded pepsi for more langosta.

The curse of the fish
was one special wish
Senor Don never caught one at sea.
When suddenly he yelled, “Neutral real fast
I think I’ve got a big one at last!”

We made it to Cabo sailing all night
Ran out of fuel with the Arch just in sight
What do we do? as we bled the fuel lines
Screw it, we sail, and we did that just fine.

Off to the end of the journey for Don
No more morning shouts of “El Tiburon!”
The coffee’s not the same
We miss shouting your name
“Buenos Dias our dear Senor Don.”

December 18, 2013

My father was the one who first shared this incredible life style with me. He loved anything to do with water and I quickly inherited his passion. When I was seven years old, he took our family to Fort Lauderdale and charted a private sailboat to take us to Bimini. Waking up at dawn on the bow of the boat wafting on a sea of turquoise water and brilliantly white sand, overlooking a small island with palm trees gently swaying in a warm breeze, I was hooked. This began a lifetime love affair with sailing and the ocean and is what brought me to here, now. Papa showed me there could be days like this.

We left Los Frailes at 0500 under a full moon. Absolutely beautiful. We wore shorts and a light sweater and twenty minutes later the sweater came off. Following Captain Rains’ suggestion, we headed three miles east and then turned north for five miles to avoid the reefs along Cabo Pulmo.

Heading north, we watched as the full moon set over the mountains to the left of us. At the same time, to the right of us, we saw the sun rising, causing what few clouds there were to turn orange and yellow. The seas had started to smooth out and although we were motoring and only making 4.5 knots over the ground, we couldn’t help but be enchanted by the light and the air and the sea.

This day, the ocean waves stayed low and gentle and we had enough wind for a sail.

Because of the good weather conditions we arrived at Bahia de Los Muertos earlier than we had anticipated. It was only 1330. Enough time for a snorkel. Or so I had hoped. We were dropping the anchor close to the reefs and I imagined myself jumping off the boat and swimming only a few feet to get a glimpse of the fish. But anchoring close to a reef where the ground is sand and rock can be quite a challenge and not always a good choice. Our anchor was skipping and we weren’t satisfied that it was holding so we pulled it up and moved to an area that was all sand and no rocks. This time the anchor held right away. But now it was 1430 and we were no longer close to the reef and there was still some tidying up to do. Hmm… now what?

Minutes later our friends from Meridian came over (Heinz, Margrit and Dominique) on their dinghy and we hitched a ride onto shore. So much for boat chores! We quickly got a hat and shoes and jumped on board.

Muertos refers to “dead man anchors” which were actually train axles buried under the sea. In the 1920s, they were used to secure barges that came to load silver ore that was delivered there from El Triunfo. When developers arrived to build a new resort they didn’t like the name so they came up with a new name for their hotel and golf course, Bahia de Los Suenos or Bay of Dreams.

I have to say, they got it right.

This bay is one of the most beautiful bays we have seen so far. There is one view from the boat to the shore and then there is the other view, from the shore. Wow! The sun was setting over the mountains and the sea was sparkling, reflecting light across the water. The shadows of the palm trees added contrast to an already stunning horizon.

We wandered over to a panga pulled up on the beach and sitting behind a pick-up truck with its hatch down. We noticed a bunch of Pelicans waiting patiently in line by the panga. We assumed there was fish somewhere close and we were right. A Mexican fisherman was fileting a Marlin. It was about 9 feet long and maybe weighed as much as 300 pounds. It took two men to move it from the boat to the back of the truck. He had caught two marlin this size and was extremely proud of his accomplishment. I guess so.

We stood watching as he cut him up into filets and then cleaned them in a bucket of sea water and then threw them into a cooler. We didn’t ask to buy one. I am not sure why. Another missed opportunity, I think.

On to the restaurant. We walked into a beautiful open palapa with an incredible view of the bay. It was there we shared a few drinks with our friends before heading back to the boat for dinner.

We loved Bahia de Los Muertos so much we wanted to stay another day but the weather forecast had other ideas. There was a “cold” front coming in and with it some wind and rain. We still had to go through The Cerralvo Channel and the San Lorenzo Channel and needed a good weather window. The following morning we pulled anchor and headed out around 0500 again.

We had another great day. At first we had a two-knot current running against us when we headed through the Cerralvo Channel but only for a couple of hours. Then the current switched and we were running with it, so no problems there. The seas were flat even though we picked up some wind. We were a little worried about San Lorenzo Channel because it goes from about 1000 feet to 50 feet rather quickly and leads into a narrow channel with reefs and shoals on either side, but all went well there too.

We arrived at Marina Costa Baja around 1430. There were no fireworks. There was no drama to speak about. We were just here. In La Paz. Jay and I kept looking at one another, “Is this for real?” We checked in, found our slip and sat down and shared our last beer. “Cheers.”

We did it.