7th October, 2023

Dubai, Part II – The Arabian Desert

Our visit to Dubai was full of surprises in that it wasn’t exactly what I had expected. Our favorite discovery was our tour that took us deep into the desert where we had the opportunity to ride a camel and enjoy dinner in a Bedouin camp under the stars.

Jay was hesitant. I don’t think he wanted to go. But in the end, he relented – albeit begrudgingly – and we stepped into our tour guide’s car at 3 p.m.

We picked up a young lady from Australia traveling alone and a Chinese couple with their son who was about eight years old. Our guide was from Pakistan. It was this international group who became our companions for the evening. It was an interesting mix of personalities sharing a unique experience; each interpreting it through the lens of his/her own culture.

The further we got out of the city, the more diverse the terrain became. It was dry and dotted with brush. The haze that had hovered over the city didn’t follow us into the desert. We were under a clear blue sky with the promise of a setting sun.

We drove by the building where “local” Muslims celebrate their marriages. We saw the houses “local” Muslims are gifted when they arrive home from their honeymoon. (I understood the “local” Muslims to be those who were born and grew up in Dubai.) The buildings were all white and looked to be made of concrete. The neighborhoods reminded me of our American housing tracks where everything looks the same.

As we passed a huge ranch where they shelter and train camels, our guide explained how important camels are to the Arabs. They are used for travel, food, and racing. It must have been time to exercise them as we saw tens upon tens of camels being ridden along the road. The camels are revered, he said and could cost up to $80,000 for a prize race camel.

Our driver took us to a staging area where we were to pick up our desert vehicle, a 1960s-era Land Rover. Before leaving, our guides supplied us with a traditional men’s headdress, called a ghutrah – even for us women to wear. This led to a lot of self-conscious laughter as I felt it to be oh, so unflattering. I ultimately surrendered my ego and I admit, it was fun to get into the spirit of the adventure. Our group piled into the Land Rover and began our journey into the unknown.

The desert that lay before us was unlike any other desert I have seen. Other than in movies. I’m very familiar with the Arizona desert. This was quite different. For miles and miles, golden dunes layered the horizon on either side of the road. The wind created dips and curves embedded in the sand that constantly shifted with the slightest breeze. It was hypnotic in its expanse. Every once in a while, we would see an oasis where green brush and a few trees dotted the landscape.

Our first stop was the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve. Here we saw the national animal of Dubai, a desert antelope, the Arabian Oryx. They are quite odd-looking as they have long, skinny horns towering over their heads. Their horns are so long that they appear to be a burden to carry. They are used as defense weapons; lowering their heads to point their horns toward what they might deem to be a threat. And they have something unique in their brains that cools their blood, allowing them to live under such hot conditions. With the sun beginning to wane, we headed to the main event, our evening meal and celebration at a Bedouin Camp.

 

We arrived at the campsite to a warm welcome where they served us a glass of tea, then directed us to an outside area with pillows laid out in rows of ten. We were invited to sit down. The sun was low on the horizon and the air was cooling. Hushed voices carried over the desert. The first of our evening’s entertainment was about to begin. A man with his pet falcon walked over, cleared his throat, and asked for our attention. “Like our camels, falcons are revered here in the UAE…” he began. He proceeded to educate us about falcons and how they were once used by the Bedouins for hunting.

We wandered around the camp while the food was being prepared. Everything was set up for sitting low to the ground. The dirt floor was solid and covered with colorful Persian rugs. Plush pillows served as seats. Dining alcoves bordered the central gathering area with low tables also surrounded by pillows. Handmade pottery was placed strategically to spruce up the décor. We were shown a few sparsely furnished private rooms that were available for overnight visits. Oil lanterns were the only source of light and added a warm hue to the atmosphere.

We watched as a man showed us how he made flatbread. A tattoo artist sat in the wings, drawing henna designs on women’s wrists. While that was interesting, I led Jay outside to the camels. I was all in for riding one. Jay not so much. He did join in on the fun. Although he probably wouldn’t have called it fun as his camel was a bit ornery. Vocal. Like he didn’t want to be carrying people on his back. Getting on and off a camel is a bit awkward too. It is a forward/backward motion that is jarring, and you feel as if you are going to fall off. It was a short ride and fortunately, neither one of us did fall off.

 

Later that evening we were treated to a traditional dinner. There was lots of lamb and some chicken all covered in their own unique sauce. Camel is a local favorite, and I took a bite. I didn’t care for it. I also tried camel milk. It was warm and salty. I didn’t care for that either. Vegetarian curry was offered for those who didn’t eat meat.

Each group sat together around a low table in one of the alcoves. It is here we got to share stories with our new friends from China, Australia, and Pakistan. Meanwhile, a few musicians came out to perform for us, singing and beating their drums.

After dinner and dessert, when our tummies were full to the brim, we were invited to move into the central area. If we chose to, we could partake in smoking a hookah filled with apple-flavored tobacco. Neither one of us smokes, but as the saying goes, “When in Rome…”

“The Bedouins were nomads and traveled through the desert at night due to the heat,” one of our guides said as the lanterns were turned off. All was dark but for the beautiful starlit sky above. Using a laser pointer, he explained the stellar formations and how his ancestors used the stars for navigation. It was magical and we could place ourselves in the cloaks of a nomad. The perfect closing for an incredible day.