12th July, 2023

Trouble in a Distant Land

As we drove through the bush, I felt transported back in time. A time when humans were more connected with the natural world. With no outside artificial distractions, I began to tune in to my innate instincts, listening to the wind and watching the sky. Was it filled with clouds promising rain? Or was the sun showing off a silver blue sky? Maybe there were thin, wispy strands of clouds stretching far across the horizon, forecasting wind. Was that a zebra I saw, grazing amongst the trees? Were the elephants the ones breaking off branches, leaving a trail for us to follow? My nose twitched at the smell of dung as I heard a male nyala rutting off in the distance. A bird brushed my hair and landed on its perch. She sang a high-pitched song. Maybe there will be rain after all.

As Siya taught us the methods of tracking, I could envision myself living in the bush thousands of years ago. The illusion of a kinder, simpler time filled my thoughts. A time when the thunderous roar of our modern lives had yet to emerge in full force. But when we came across a water buffalo – and he stared us down – I knew my fantasies of the past were not realistic. I became acutely aware of how dangerous and challenging it was to live in that era. In fact, the same is true today; it is still a dangerous and challenging world.

Siya would often make a “joke” when passing a person on our bush drive, “And that is a Homosapien, the most dangerous animal,” he would say. We all would cringe, knowing he was speaking truth.

Many of us have heard about the endangered animals due to poaching. At Thula Thula, we heard horror stories that were personal to those rangers who care and protect them. Though elephants are certainly threatened, it was the rhinos that have been targeted at Thula Thula.

In 2017, two armed men broke into the Thula Thula Rhino Orphanage, taking the caretakers hostage and killing two rhino babies whose parents had been poached. It was a devasting and terrifying event which caused the government to shut down the orphanage.

In 2020, the reserve was again under siege by poachers only the sophisticated camera system and the quick action of the anti-poaching unit was able to stop them from hurting any of the animals.

Poaching is a consistent and never-ending problem. And difficult to combat.

Imagine if you were poor and were struggling to feed your family. Or you work at the reserve and are getting paid fairly but not the amount the poachers might offer for information. These are the kind of situations that tempt those in need. Poverty is not an excuse, but it might help one to understand what they were up against.

For the poachers, theirs is an even bigger payday. We were told that just one ounce of the rhino’s tusk can go for $4,000 or more in Asia. Why? The legend is that ground rhino horn is a powerful aphrodisiac. Others profess it to have healing powers. The truth? Their horn is made of keratin. The same thing our nails and hair are made of. There is nothing magical about it. Still, there is a big market for rhino tusk.

At Thula Thula, the anti-poaching unit works twenty-four hours a day. They patrol the fences on foot while carrying automatic weapons. They have air support, and they travel by vehicle. Every single person who works there is constantly aware of the on-going threat. While the rangers drive us by the border fences, they aren’t just tracking the animals, they are also looking for cuts or openings that could allow the poachers to enter the reserve. They limit their radio communication so as not to alert the poachers to where the animals are located. They do everything in their power to protect the animals.

Another conservation practice that is being done at Thula Thula is the removal of the rhino tusks. You might have noticed in the photos of Thabo and Ntombi. They don’t look like other rhinos because their tusks have been cut off. It is not painful. They are made of keratin. Besides, they are darted and put to sleep prior to the procedure.

A helicopter pilot is hired to locate the rhinos. When found, the veterinarian shoots a sedative dart at the rhino from the helicopter. Once he falls, the veterinarian joins the ranger team on the ground and they work together to remove the tusk. Just like our nails, they do grow back so the surgery is repeated about every 18 months. Once they remove the tusks, we are told they poison them and put them into a safe.

At the tented camp area, there are several tusks scattered around. They were taken from deceased animals and are on display for the guests. Signs are posted saying they are poisoned to deter the poachers.

As long as there is a market for the tusks, the animals are not safe. It is a sad reality that could lead to the extinction of rhinos (as well as other species). They are many ways to help. A donation is one. (www.thulathula.com.) Or better yet, visit Thula Thula. You will fall in love with the animals as I did.