25th May, 2023

A Day in the Bush

0500- We have risen but the sun has not. There is no electricity this morning because all of South Africa is on a rolling blackout schedule. Neither is there any water. This makes for a bit of a challenge as we stumble around our tent with a flashlight. We chose to stay in the Luxury Tented Camp – or rather, I should say – I chose to stay in a tent. (The other choice was the Elephant Safari Lodge.) Jay was suspect of the whole idea, “We are staying in a tent? In the bush? In Africa? He lamented. “Honey, it’s a luxury tent, I replied over and over again. Until today. Now we were actually experiencing living in a tent in the African bush.

When we arrived at the gates of Thula Thula, we were met by Siya who was not only a ranger but our guide for the entire visit. We were escorted to the office that lies on a hill overlooking all 5000 hectares of Thula Thula. Francoise’s (the owner of Thula Thula) house sits next door. The area is landscaped with a garden and pool. Six dogs greeted us by way of barking. Our tent, we were told, was exactly eight minutes away by Land Cruiser. Jay looked at me with trepidation as we drove deeper and deeper into the bush.

 

There are eight tents total, and we are staying in tent number eight. It sits at one end of the camp on a platform with decks all around it and an outdoor shower. From the deck we can see miles of bush before us. Inside are two ¾ beds pushed together with mosquito netting. The bathroom has a clawfoot tub, sink and toilet but no proper door, just an opening. Next to the toilet is a screen window looking out into the bush. The floor is wooden and creaks loudly when walked on. There will be no sneaking around in this tent.

Jay and I find our clothes, brush our teeth with bottled water and make our way out onto the deck. Last night I thought I heard footsteps but when I looked over, Jay was in bed next to me. Outside we see small footprints. “Look! Jay says pointing to the deck, “I thought I heard something last night. Monkeys?” (We were told later that they were bush babies. Somewhat like monkeys but smaller and with very large eyes.) There were many sounds that echoed through the darkness. We heard the rutting call of the impala and the hyena’s eerie cry. It led to a sleepless night.

It is damp and chilly as we make our way down the path to the Game Lodge where coffee, tea and muffins await us. The Game Lodge is an open-air building with dining tables, a bar, couches and tables and overlooks the swimming pool and a manicured lawn. The walls are filled with newspaper articles and photos covering the many years of accomplishments made in conservation here at Thula Thula. Monkeys lurk in the trees surrounding the lodge. They wait for the perfect opportunity to steal food, any food. This morning they are not so lucky. Our waitress, Nox, shoos them away with what looks like a slingshot. She doesn’t actually use it, just threatens to.

0630 – Siya arrives right on time and we get into the land cruiser. It is an open-air vehicle with enough seats for ten passengers. Today there is just the two of us. We are to have our own private tour.

The rain has finally stopped although it is still cloudy. The roads are very muddy and full of potholes. It is very slippery at times. As the sun rises, it reveals a breathtaking landscape. Tall blades of golden grass against the green hills thick with foliage. We can see for miles and miles. We see zebras and nyalas and impalas, by the dozen it seems. With the sound of our motor, a troop of baboons run quickly up the road in front of us. We spend some time with the giraffes, so tall and graceful and unconcerned at our presence.

Siya drives down to the dam where we see a hippo family. Or should I say, spotted them. Sometimes they make funny noises when they stick their heads out of the water. They sound like they are laughing at us.

This is the dam named after Lawrence Anthony, the owner of Thula Thula who passed away in 2012. It is named, umkhulu, the Zulu name for grandfather as that was his nickname. His family and friends scattered Lawrence’s ashes here and on the same day, the elephants came to swim. Siya says they were having their own funeral for Lawrence.

We continue on hoping to see the elephants but this morning, no such luck. The morning game drive is ending. It is time for breakfast.

“Good morning,” Nox says. “This morning we have eggs, bacon, hash browns, tomato and mushrooms. What would you like?” This after a display of yogurt granola, cereals, fruit, muffins and the most delicious crepes. We enjoy our breakfast while Nox patrols for monkeys. After breakfast we have free time until lunch at 1300. We go back to our tent to charge our electronics while the electricity is on. I read. I write. I walk.

Walking is a bit limited as we can’t leave the camp area. I explore the other tents, the gardens, walk along the pool. Outside the game lodge, I see several skeleton bones. A notice is placed beside the horns as a warning. It says they have been poisoned. This is to keep the poachers from stealing them. (Poaching is a big problem which I will address in a later blog.)

It is 1300 and it is time to eat again. We are served chicken skewers, salad and mashed yams. Quite good. Desert is offered. I worry that if I continue to eat like this with little exercise, I will gain weight. (I did, six pounds.) More free time after lunch. Jay and I take a nap.

1530 and Siya arrives for our afternoon drive. He packs a cooler with cocktails and appetizers for our sundowner. Two couples from Florida have arrived at the camp this morning and will join us on our drive.

“It is all about the elephants this afternoon,” Siya tells us. We follow their trail of dung and broken branches. We see them on the road up in front of us and then more in the bush and across the river. Siya drives around to the other side of the river to greet the elephants as they move through. We follow them up a hill and to a clearing they use as a runway for small planes and helicopters. Siya says they call it Thula Thula International.

Some elephants are eating. Others are playing. And then there are the bulls bullying each other. A curious one comes over to the land cruiser. That is a little spooky, I think to myself. But Siya talks to them in a calm voice, starts the vehicle and moves back. She backs away.

One very special moment is when Mabona comes over to Jay. She is very close. I see Jay tense and at the same time, try to be calm. Mabona takes her trunk and puts it on his shoulder. She moves her trunk ever so slowly down his arm and into his pocket. Jay sits very still. They stare at each other, eye to eye, not even one foot apart. She moves away and we all breathe a sigh of relief. At the same time, we recognize we just witnessed a very spiritual moment. I think Jay will be forever changed.

We have spent about two hours with the elephants when Siya takes us high up on a hill. We are invited to step out of the land cruiser and stretch our legs. We stand there overlooking the valley, each lost in our own thoughts. Meanwhile, Siya is putting up a table and tablecloth and laying out our appetizers. He pours our wine, and we all say a toast to this wonderful moment we are enjoying.

Back at the game lodge, we all gather around the bar. Two other ladies and another gentleman who were on a different game drive join us. We compare our stories. Wow! This is like something I would see in a movie or read in a book. But it is us, Jay and me, experiencing this in real life. Awesome. Amazing. Incredible. I am filled with joy.

Dinner arrives and it is a buffet with chicken curry and impala ribs, potatoes, rice and vegetables. And of course, desert is offered later.

0830 – We are back in our tent, and I am writing furiously before they turn off the lights again. And then, just like that, the day is over. It won’t be long before I lay down my head and dream of tomorrow.